Trotting Tulum

In 2008, my mom and I decided to go to Mexico for spring vacation. Her yoga instructor insisted we see Tulum. Personally, I am not the type to enjoy all-inclusive resorts - I prefer to feel the culture I have traveled to. So, knowing that Tulum is only a 2-hour drive from Cancun, I was skeptical. We arrived in the evening with reservations only for that first night at the Posada Dos Ceibas bungallows on the beach (I like taking this risk because it has usually bred better deals - the next day we looked at several cabanas and got a bargain for La Via Laktea). It was pitch dark. Surrounded by absolute silence, we ate and fell asleep early.

I slept like a rock. However, we strangely woke up at around 6AM, both of us at the same instant. A gorgeous sun was rising. We decided to run out for a stroll on the beach. I opened the door of the cabana and, as soon as my bare foot touched the warm sandy ground, I realized I was in paradise. We crossed the endless empty beach stretches, absorbing the colorful sky that was evolving slowly from red to blue. All that existed for miles, it seemed, were waves. No other sounds, no other thoughts. This was the first of the several days spent in this tranquillity, barefoot, waking up and falling asleep to the turquoise ocean.

Tulum's beaches spread south from what are considered to be the most beautiful and best preserved Mayan ruins. The Tulum Ruins are situated on a cliff above the ocean. This combination makes it one of the most stunning historical sites I have ever seen. However, be prepared - it is overcrowded with tourists and this will especially be unpleasant if you have spent a few days in the cabanas isolated in nature. This is why I recommend you see the ruins at the very beginning of your stay in Tulum.

The cabanas are situated on a preserved strip of beaches that lead to yet another natural treasure. The Sian Ka'an Biological Reserve, a 1.3 million acre UNESCO World Heritage Site, literally means "Where the Sky is Born". This area is full of Cenotes - freshwater lakes in limestone, most often connected to aquifers.

With all its beauty, this is a perfect place - for a peculiar set of travelers (like myself). The tap water is salty, the solar-powered electricity only runs in the evening hours (5PM-11PM), it's damp and the bungalows and camps are set directly on the sand, which the wind inevitably carries into the rooms. Because of the Biological Reserve, construction of real houses/buildings/hotels is prohibited. Here's how I see it: the lack of air conditioning definitely gets compensated by the tune with nature and the fact that, even at peak season with every cabana overbooked, there simply aren't nearly enough cabanas to make this place crowded.

As is the case with any paradise, portraying Tulum is virtually impossible. Let's just say that I met quite a few people who visited once and stayed forever. No wonder.

A few tips:

• Do not go if you are not a nature lover.
  
• Use websites like Trip Advisor to skim through the list of cabanas but ALWAYS try to find the actual website of the cabanas you like, find the contact information and call directly to make a deal, preferably in Spanish. It's cheaper that way.
  
• The cabanas can get pretty pricey - they range anywhere from $20 to $200 per night. Be careful how you pick your accommodation as the cheaper options may not actually be on the beach.
  
• If looking for low budget accommodation, go with the camping option, which costs approximately $5 per night.
  
• Have snacks with you! The food is great but it is expensive. The town is not on a walking distance and it adds up to eat at one of the cabanas' cafes all of the time. That being said, keep in mind that you will be surrounded by wonderful fruit.
  
• Visit the town, its market and restaurants. It's full of life and the food is amazing and cheap (but the taxi to town, one way, costs around $8).